巴黎传奇夜店废弃后重开

Les Bains, a Legendary Parisian Nightclub, Brought Back to Life
巴黎传奇夜店废弃后重开

PARIS ― Perhaps only in Paris would a past-its-prime nightclub be brought back from dereliction. But to Parisians of a certain age, Les Bains Douches was not just any old boîte de nuit.

巴黎――也许只有在巴黎，一个过气夜总会能在废弃后东山再起。但是对某个年龄段的巴黎人来说，Les Bains Douches（它的字面意思是冲洗浴室――译注）不只是一个老夜总会。

“Oh, there was no other nightclub,” said André Saraiva, 43, the graffiti artist and night life impresario behind the exclusive Le Baron clubs in Paris and around the world. “It was like a place of freedom. A temple for night culture. And it was cool.”

“哦，没有哪个夜总会能与Les Bains Douches相提并论，”43岁的涂鸦艺术家安德烈・萨赖瓦(André Saraiva)说。他也是巴黎及世界各地的私人俱乐部Le Baron的夜生活演出人。“它像个自由王国，是夜生活文化的殿堂。它很酷。”

There were other clubs in that golden age of Paris night life, but perhaps none of them were as era defining. Opened in 1978 on the site of a 19th-century bathhouse in the Third Arrondissement, Les Bains Douches made stars of its designer (Philippe Starck) and resident D.J. (David Guetta), who were unknown at the time. Joy Division recorded a live album in the basement, where Prince performed impromptu and Depeche Mode played years before selling out stadiums.

在巴黎夜生活的黄金年代，还有其他一些俱乐部，但也许哪个也不像Les Bains Douches那样能代表那个时代。Les Bains Douches创立于1978年，位于第三区一个19世纪浴室的旧址。它让原本默默无闻的店铺设计师（菲利普・斯塔克［Philippe Starck］）和驻店DJ（大卫・格塔［David Guetta］）成了名人。欢乐分队乐团(Joy Division)在这里的地下室录制过一张现场专辑；王子(Prince)曾在这里即兴表演；赶时髦乐团(Depeche Mode)的演唱会门票大卖之前在这里演出多年。

And then there was the crowd. Jean-Michel Basquiat, Yves Saint Laurent, Mick Jagger, Johnny Depp and Kate Moss were there, indeed. But it was really about the cross section of clubgoers and creatives, highbrow and low, glamorous and underground, big names and nobodies, all mingling by the mosaic tile pool.

这里曾汇聚三教九流。的确，让-米切尔・巴斯奎特(Jean-Michel Basquiat)、伊夫・圣罗兰(Yves Saint Laurent)、米克・贾格尔(Mick Jagger)、约翰尼・德普(Johnny Depp)和凯特・莫斯(Kate Moss)来过这里。但是，更重要的是，夜店爱好者和创意人士，阳春白雪和下里巴人，魅力四射和低调的人，名人和普通人，都融合在这里的镶嵌瓷砖泳池里。

“We would come with our runway makeup on and whatever beautiful couture things we put together,” said Dianne Brill, a former model and “It Girl” of 1980s New York (Andy Warhol called her “Queen of the Night”) who now has her own cosmetics line. “It was very, very glamorous, but it was not slick.”

“我们会带着秀台上的妆容、穿着组合起来的各式精美高级定制服装去那里，”20世纪80年代的纽约名模兼名媛戴安娜・布里尔（Dianne Brill，安迪・沃霍尔[Andy Warhol]称她是“夜晚皇后”）说。她现在拥有自己的化妆品系列。“它很迷人，但不肤浅。”

It is today. You will still find the face of Bacchus sculpted into its Haussmannian facade. The original David Rocheline frescoes and double-faced clock are still in the foyer. And the circa-1983 Futura graffiti, created while on tour with the Clash, now adorns a patio beside the restaurant, where Mr. Starck’s black-and-white-checkered dance floor has been fully restored.

如今，它奥斯曼风格的正面仍雕刻着酒神巴克斯(Bacchus)的脸庞。门厅上仍保留着最初的大卫・罗切林(David Rocheline)壁画和双面钟。Futura1983年左右在和冲撞乐队(Clash)巡演途中创作的涂鸦如今装饰着餐厅旁边的露台。餐厅里，斯塔克设计的黑白格舞池地面已被完全修复。

But the new Les Bains (the “Douches” was dropped), which opened quietly this month after being closed for five years, is now a 39-room hotel, with a smaller club in the basement (the pool, a replica, sits behind a glass partition that slides up at night) and a restaurant that literally shines: The walls, undulating ceiling and stalactite-like pillars are swathed in a burgundy-red lacquer.

Les Bains Douches俱乐部在关闭五年之后，于本月悄然重开，更名为Les Bains（去掉了Douches），变成了一个有39个房间的酒店。地下室里保留了一个较小的俱乐部（复制的泳池在一个玻璃隔板后面，隔板在晚间向上滑起），还有一个闪闪发亮的餐厅：餐厅的墙壁、波状天花板以及钟乳石样的柱子都涂着酒红色亮漆。

The restaurant made a dramatic backdrop for a star-studded Dior after-party during Paris Fashion Week in March, the first of several splashy preopening events (Tommy Hilfiger and Givenchy have hosted parties, too). And with plans for more parties in the coming weeks during the men’s fashion and haute couture shows, Les Bains is already among the hottest spots in town.

在3月份的巴黎时装周期间，这家餐厅成为明星云集的迪奥(Dior)余兴派对的所在地，很是引人注目。那是几次引起轰动的开业筹备活动之一（汤米・希尔费格[Tommy Hilfiger]和纪梵希[Givenchy]也在这里举办过派对）。计划在即将到来的男装和高级定制时装周期间举办的更多派对也把Les Bains列为巴黎最热门的备选地点之一。

Upstairs, the interior designer Tristan Auer (who is currently restoring the Hôtel de Crillon) has furnished the rooms with rust-red velvet sofas modeled after the one in Andy Warhol’s Factory, and suites have outdoor showers and private hammams.

室内设计师特里斯坦・奥尔（Tristan Auer，目前他正在整修克里雍大饭店[Hôtel de Crillon]）给楼上的客房布置了模仿安迪・沃霍尔工厂(Andy Warhol’s Factory)作品的铁锈红天鹅绒沙发，套房设有户外淋浴和私人土耳其蒸汽浴室。

“It’s a fuller experience than it used to be because before it was only a restaurant and club,” said Jean-Pierre Marois, the 51-year-old filmmaker whose family has owned the building since the 1960s. Having spent his formative years climbing the club’s crowded front stoop to be assessed by the formidable doorwoman, Marie-Line, he is now the owner and the man behind the reinvention of Les Bains as a hotel and lifestyle brand.

“现在，它能提供更完整的体验。以前它只有餐厅和俱乐部，”51岁的电影制作人让-皮埃尔・马鲁瓦(Jean-Pierre Marois)说。他的家族自20世纪60年代起拥有这幢建筑。青少年时期，他得爬上俱乐部拥挤的前门台阶，接受威严的门卫玛丽-利恩(Marie-Line)的审查；如今他是这里的主人，也是把Les Bains重新开发成一个酒店和生活方式品牌的幕后推手。

When Les Bains Douches opened, “it was after birth control pills for the masses, and before AIDS,” he said. “So it was like a unique window. People could be very promiscuous and careless. Our life is much more controlled now.”

他说，Les Bains Douches开业之时，“大众避孕药已经研发出来，艾滋病还没有出现，所以那是个独特的时期。那时候，人们的性生活可能十分混乱随意。现在，我们的生活有了很多束缚”。

And in the past, if you were so inspired (or inebriated) to strip down to your underwear and jump into the pool, there was no risk of it ending up on Instagram. “I don’t know how young people do it these days,” said Elisabeth Raether, an editor at the Berlin-based Zeit Magazin, which held a party at the nightclub in April. “There’s iPhones everywhere, so how can you really forget yourself and dance the night away?”

过去，如果你一时兴起（或者酩酊大醉），想脱得只剩内裤，跳进泳池，你不用担心自己的形象最终会出现在Instagram上。“我不知道如今的年轻人是如何应对的，”柏林《时代杂志》(Zeit Magazin)的编辑伊丽莎白・雷特尔(Elisabeth Raether)说。4月份，该杂志在Les Bains俱乐部举办了一个派对。“到处都有iphone，你怎么能真正忘情地彻夜跳舞呢？”

Still, the revelry has returned with abandon. Funktion-One speakers help, with the music going until 5 a.m. most days. Recent weeks have featured up-and-coming live acts like the emerging French electro-pop duo My Dear and D.J. sets by artists like Nancy Whang of the Juan MacLean. On another night, the French producer Breakbot spontaneously took over the decks using whatever USB sticks were in his pocket. (Mr. Marois said that the anonymous members of Daft Punk were also in the audience, sans helmets.)

不过，放纵的狂欢仍然重现。Funktion-One音响起了一定的作用，大部分时候音乐持续到凌晨5点。最近几周，出现了一些大有前途的现场表演（比如法国电子流行乐新秀二人组My Dear的表演）和艺术家编排的DJ乐曲组合（比如胡安・麦克莱恩乐队[Juan MacLean]的南希・王[Nancy Whang]编排的乐曲组合）。还有一天晚上，法国唱片制作人Breakbot一时兴起，接管了播放台，用自己口袋里USB存储器里的乐曲随性组合（马鲁瓦说，傻朋克乐队[Daft Punk]的无名成员也混在人群中，没戴头盔）。

And with old regulars like Roman Polanski and Jean-Charles de Castelbajac coming back again, Les Bains has managed to retain its fashionable mix.

随着罗曼・波兰斯基(Roman Polanski)和让-查尔斯・德・卡斯泰尔巴雅克(Jean-Charles de Castelbajac)等老顾客再次回归，Les Bains成功地保持了它的时尚多元性。

“My biggest goal is that Les Bains attracts really much the same crowd than before, which is people from all walks of life that are creative and inspired and inspiring,” Mr. Marois said. “I think there is room to celebrate Raf Simons’s new collection, and on the other end of the spectrum, I also want to have, you know, like underground dinners and parties for street artists or unknown musicians. To go from LVMH to an art student, and give them the same exposure.”

“我最大的目标是让Les Bains真正吸引到和从前一样的人群――有创意、有灵感、能启发灵感的各界人士，”马鲁瓦说，“我觉得这里既可以用来庆祝拉夫・西蒙斯(Raf Simons)的新服装系列，也能为街头艺术家或无名音乐人举办独特的晚宴和派对。不管是路威酩轩集团(LVMH)还是艺术学生，都能在这里得到同样的曝光机会。”

Mr. Marois has assembled a notable team of “curators” to help with the task, including the local gallerist Jérôme Pauchant (to organize art residencies) and the music director Lars Krueger (to advise on playlists and D.J.s). The bouncer Marie-Line, who is now in her 60s and is still blond and clad in black, has come out of retirement to “curate the crowd.”

马鲁瓦还召集了一个著名的“组织者”队伍，来帮助实现这个目标，包括当地画廊老板哲罗姆・保夏特（Jérôme Pauchant，他负责组织驻地艺术创作）和音乐总监拉尔斯・克吕格尔（Lars Krueger，他负责对音乐播放列表和DJ提供建议）。保镖玛丽-利恩现在60多岁，仍然一头金发，一袭黑衣，复出“管理人群”。

And Thomas Erber, known for his roving Cabinet de Curiosités, has tapped French labels big and small to create one-off items that “define the essence of the place.” Among them: a Thierry Mugler dinner dress, a Melindagloss smoking jacket and a white collared shirt by Pierre Mahéo of Officine Generale (who designed Serge Gainsbourg-esque suits and silk-knit ties for the male staffers).

以流动的珍品陈列室(Cabinet de Curiosités)闻名的托马斯・埃贝尔(Thomas Erber)发掘或大或小的法国品牌创造出“能定义这个地方精髓的”非经常性项目。其中包括Thierry Mugler晚礼服、Melindagloss吸烟装和Officine Generale的皮埃尔・马黑奥（Pierre Mahéo，他为男职员设计了赛日・甘斯布[Serge Gainsbourg]风格的西服和丝绸领带）)设计的白领衬衫。

They’ll be sold across the street at La Boutique des Bains, a gallery-like shop that opens this week, alongside Aedle headphones and Pierre Hardy sneakers embossed with the face of Bacchus. Look closely, and you’ll see mermaids twisted into his beard. “We’re honoring the heritage, but reinventing it,” Mr. Marois said.

这些服装将在街对面的La Boutique des Bains精品店销售。这个画廊模样的店铺本周开业，里面的商品还包括Aedle耳机和有酒神巴克斯浮饰的皮埃尔・哈迪(Pierre Hardy)帆布鞋。如果仔细看，你会发现酒神的胡子里是盘绕在一起的美人鱼。“我们尊重传统，但是也在改造它，”马鲁瓦说。