发现巴厘岛的另一面

Finding the Other, Cheaper Side of Bali
发现巴厘岛的另一面

It was about five miles from the Kudesa Homestay guesthouse in Kemenuh village to the Gianyar Night Market, on the Indonesian island of Bali. So I asked my host, Mangku, whether I could make it on the bike he had available for rent. No problem, he said, he knew people who do it all the time.

在印度尼西亚的海岛巴厘岛上，从位于克美奴(Kemenuh)村庄的库德萨民宿(Kudesa Homestay)到吉安雅夜市(Gianyar Night Market)的距离，仅有5英里。于是我问我的房东――大家都叫他“师傅”(Mangku)――我能不能骑辆他提供租借的车去那里。他说没问题，他认识很多人一直都是这么去的。

It was a miscommunication. I was asking about the bicycle, but he meant the motorbike, which made sense since motorcycles and scooters are the main form of transportation on Bali, the fourth, final, and by far most touristy stop on my Indonesia tour.

他误解了我的意思。我问的是自行车，而他说的则是摩托车。这并不奇怪，重型机车和小绵羊本来就是巴厘岛上最常用的交通工具。在我此次的印尼之旅中，巴厘岛是第四站和最后一站，也是迄今为止我去过的一处普通游客最常去的地方。

Alas, I don’t know how to ride them. Still, he reluctantly let me take the tough-looking red hybrid bicycle, warning me to stay out of the heavy traffic. I took his instructions literally, sticking just off the road in what I would call the anti-bike lane.

唉，我根本不会骑摩托车啊。但他还是很不情愿地让我牵出了那辆造型粗犷的红色混合自行车，告诫我与繁忙的车流保持距离。我严格地执行了他的指示，始终远离干道，只在在我看来根本就不不适合自行车行驶的小巷里穿行。

That meant bouncing over pebbly dirt shoulders and narrow sidewalks often blocked by parked cars and market stalls, edging onto the road only when there was a lull in the nearly constant scooter buzz.

这意味着我要不断地跃过卵石与泥土砌成的路肩，还有总被停放车辆与集市小摊阻塞的狭窄人行道，只有在几乎不绝于耳的摩托车轰鸣声偶有间歇时，才能缓缓地驶上路面。

It was worth it, for two reasons. First, it gave me easy access to the unadulterated Balinese food sold at market stalls ― a spicy jumble of mixed vegetables called serombotan, a luscious goat satay (no beef, since the vast majority of Bali, unlike the rest of Indonesia, is Hindu).

这么做还是值得的，原因有两点。首先，这让我很方便地在集市小摊上买到了地道的巴厘岛食物――辣味杂蔬serombotan，还有味道醇美的山羊肉沙爹（这里没有牛肉沙爹，因为和印尼的其他地方不一样，巴厘岛的大部分人都是印度教徒）。

And, on the way back, drenched in sweat, I stopped to see a group of men scorching the hair off two slaughtered pigs and ended up with an invitation to spend the festival of Galungan with a new friend.

而且，在回来的路上，浑身被汗浸透的我，中途还停了下来，观看一群男人烧掉两头宰杀的肉猪身上的鬃毛，并在最后收到了一位新朋友的邀请，与他一同欢度加隆安节(Galungan)。

Three days and four nights is a ridiculously short stay for one’s first time on Bali. Ideally, I knew, getting away from the tourist crowd meant heading away from southern Bali’s two tourist epicenters: Kuta, which has a reputation as a depraved Cancun for young Australians; and Ubud, for those seeking the more spiritual Bali described in Elizabeth Gilbert’s “Eat, Pray, Love” without straying too far from a Starbucks.

三天四夜的旅程，对于首次巴厘岛之旅而言，实在短得可笑。我知道，在理论上，远离熙攘的游客，就意味着要离开巴厘岛南部的两处游客聚集地。一处是库塔海滩(Kuta)，在年轻的澳大利亚人当中被视作生活颓废的坎昆(Cancun)；至于那些想要寻求伊丽莎白・吉尔伯特(Elizabeth Gilbert)在《一辈子做女孩》(Eat, Pray, Love)中所描绘的巴厘岛风情，但又不想离星巴克(Starbucks)太远的人，必去的地方则是乌布(Ubud)。

Instead, I stayed outside Ubud in the village of Kemenuh, which travelers visit for its woodcarving shops but not much else. Mangku himself was a retired woodcarver who became a village priest, which is what “Mangku” means.

而我却留在了乌布外侧的克美奴村庄里，游客们常来游览这里的木雕工艺商店，但除此之外也就没什么了。师傅自己就是一位退休的木雕工人，现在则当上了乡村牧师，这也是“师傅”这一称谓的本意所在。

His family still runs a shop nearby, Sembahyang Wood Carvers, that ships its intricate, mesmerizing woodwork around the world, with the prices for some of the larger mahogany pieces stretching into tens of thousands of dollars.

他的家人仍在附近经营着一家商店“崇拜木雕”(Sembahyang Wood Carvers)，将店内那些工艺复杂的精美木雕运往世界各地，其中部分体型较大的红木制品的价格，甚至能够冲到数万美元。

The guesthouse is a complex of elegant buildings in traditional Balinese orange brick and adorned with carved sandstone as elegant as the sculptures, with one big difference between the two family businesses: the price. My room cost 125,000 rupiah, or $9.41 at 13,279 rupiah to the dollar.

我所居住的宾馆由几栋造型优雅的建筑构成，它们用传统巴厘岛风格的橘红砖块砌成，并以砂岩雕刻加以装饰，其精美程度与雕像不相上下――这个家族的这两项产业，最大区别就在于价格。我所住的房间费用为12.5万卢比，按1美元兑换13,279卢比折算，约合9.41美元。

But I had moved there only after spending a day in Ubud. On my first trip I had to at least see what the hype was about. (I did completely skip Kuta, with no regrets.)

但我是先在乌布呆了一天后才到这里来的。既然是我的首次巴厘岛之旅，我好歹也得见识一下，炒作得天花乱坠的到底都是些什么。（我倒确实直接略过了库塔海滩，而且毫无遗憾。）

So, arriving after midnight on an indirect flight from Papua, I checked into the very pleasant Odah Ayu Guest House, just off Ubud’s main strip, where a tasteful room cost me 400,000 rupiah.

于是，我从巴布亚省(Papua)出发，经过转机，在午夜过后抵达巴厘岛，住进了环境宜人的鸥达阿玉宾馆(Odah Ayu Guest House)，就在乌布的主要商业区对面，一间布置雅致的房间价格花了我40万卢比。

The next day was packed full of attractions. First, the Puri Lukisan Museum (85,000 rupiah), which offers an introduction to Balinese art on lush grounds. Many paintings depicted scenes from Hindu epics I knew nothing about; I struggled to understand them but still found their elegant floral style absorbing.

我在第二天的行程里，排满了各式各样的旅游景点。首先是画宫博物馆(Puri Lukisan Museum)（门票售价8.5万卢比），在一片绿意盎然的土地上初步了解了一下巴厘岛的艺术。许多油画作品中所描绘的风景，都出自我一无所知的印度教史诗，我极尽所能去理解当中的内涵，但还是觉得优雅的花草造型最为迷人。

I paused at “Just Punishments in hell,” an intricately detailed depiction of “all the different kinds of punishments suffered by the dead that fit the misdeeds of their lives.” Characters were impaled on trees or partly submerged in a pool of flames; others were being pushed into dragons’ mouths or had their genitals set on fire.

我在《地狱里的公正处罚》(Just Punishments in hell)前驻足片刻，这幅作品用十分复杂的细节，描绘了“亡者因自身生前罪行所遭受的各种不同类型的相应处罚”。画中的角色有的被钉在树上，有的被半埋在火盆里，还有的正被送往巨龙的口中，或者正被灼烧着他们的生殖器。

Then it was on to Ibu Oka, renowned (as in, featured by Anthony Bourdain) for babi guleng, or roast suckling pig, for a 55,000-rupiah plate with meat so moist I’d call it swampy, doused with a peppery sauce and much ballyhooed pork skin that I found a bit too chewy. (I prefer my crackling a bit more, um, crackling.)

然后我去了Ibu Oka，这间小店专以babi guleng也就是烤乳猪闻名（美国大厨安东尼・波登(Anthony Bourdain)也对其盛赞有加），一盘售价5.5万卢比，里面的猪肉松软多汁，被我戏称为“沼泽”，浇上胡椒酱，配搭很大程度上宣传过度、在我看来有点太过难嚼的猪肉皮。（我更喜欢更脆一些的肉皮，嗯，脆脆的那种。）

Then there was the famed Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary, which is on lovely temple grounds and certainly worth the 30,000 rupiah fee, especially if you’ve never before had monkeys eat bananas out of your hands.

接着则是大名鼎鼎的圣猴森林避难所(Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary)，它坐落在一片风景迷人的神庙之中，3万卢比的票价绝对物有所值，尤其是你从来没有喂过猴子吃你手里的香蕉的话。

And I was intrigued by online raves about the Sari Organik Warung Bodag Maliah, depicted as an organic restaurant in a pristine location amid rice fields. It wasn’t quite as pristine as promised: A pedestrian (and motorbike) path ran through it, dotted with souvenir shops and cafes. I’d call them not so much rice fields as “Rice Fields,” framed as a destination for travelers. Few agricultural features I’ve seen have signs directing you toward them.

我也对网上众人追捧的餐厅Sari Organik Warung Bodag Maliah兴趣浓厚，据说这家有机餐厅位于稻田中的一处质朴之地。那里其实并没有宣传所说的那么质朴：一条步行道（也是摩托车道）从中穿过，路边点缀着几家纪念品商店和咖啡馆。要我说，这里的稻田并没有多到可以被称作“稻田”，最多就是一处面向游客的旅游景点罢了。而我很少看到哪些农业特色地点会有明确的标识引导你抵达目的地。

I get the appeal, but a week earlier, I had clambered over rice fields on Sulawesi for miles and miles, without a tourist in sight. In Papua, I had hiked hours to villages without seeing a single sign, let alone one directing you to the local sweet potato plantations.

我能了解当地所想要传达的诉求，但就在一周前，我刚刚在苏拉威西岛(Sulawesi)上翻过了连绵数英里的稻田，途中可连一名游客都没见着。在巴布亚省，我曾徒步数小时前往不同村庄，路上连一个标志都没看到过，更别说能够引导你前往当地红薯种植园的标志了。

Still, the cafe was lovely. My salad was so fresh it tasted as if I were picking it directly from the earth, and with some surprising ingredients, with greens like leaves of both guava and soursop. At 48,000 rupiah, it was a bargain.

尽管如此，这里的咖啡馆还是很可爱的。我点的沙拉用料新鲜，口感仿佛刚刚从地里直接采摘回来的一般，里面还用到了一些罕见的食材，例如番石榴叶、红毛榴莲叶等绿叶菜。一盘只需4.8万卢比，实在是物美价廉。

As was my day in Ubud, which cost me, astonishingly, something like $20. But halfway through the day I paused and went to Booking.com, the site I turn to for lodging not listed elsewhere, and found Kudesa. (I didn’t even find it on TripAdvisor.)

以上就是我在乌布的一天，总共竟然才只花了我20美元左右。但在那天中午，我一度暂停行程，访问网站Booking.com，试图寻找一间在其他网站上看不到的住宿地点――我就是这样找到的库德萨民宿。（我甚至在TripAdvisor上都没有看到过这家的信息。）

During my stay at Odah Ayu, I had met Komang, a member of the family that owns it; as I checked out, he offered to drive me to Kudesa. Thirty minutes later, we passed through a lavish carved gate and entered what looked like a palace or temple: buildings made of that orange brick, their doors shrouded in ornate sandstone carving. Komang was impressed. “This is maybe rich family,” he said.

暂住鸥达阿玉期间，我认识了克曼(Komang)，他是这家旅馆主人家族的一员；当我退房时，他提出愿意开车送我到库德萨民宿。30分钟后，我们穿过一扇奢华的雕花大门，进入了一处仿若宫殿又像是神庙的地方：橘红色砖块砌成的建筑物，门扇上包着一层华美无比的砂岩雕刻。这让克曼眼界大开。“这户人家大概很有钱，”他说。

Perhaps, but one that charges less than $10 for a single. The place had undergone an expansion recently, and now included a handful of fancy-looking rooms along a reverse infinity pool. (That’s my new term for when the infinity edge points in the wrong direction ― to the rooms themselves).

或许，但是单人间的收费也才不到10美元而已。这里不久前刚刚经过扩修，如今拥有好几间设计精美的客房，沿着一座反向无边缘设计的泳池一路排开。（这是我创造的一个新名词，指称那些池边朝向一反常态，朝着客房一侧的无边缘泳池。）

I never got to see my single; the place was nearly empty, so I was upgraded to one of the older doubles (regular price, 180,000 rupiah.) It was a no-nonsense room, with a single sheet and blanket on the bed, an air-conditioner that leaked, and acoustics that allowed me to diagnose sleep apnea in the guest next door. Considering the elegant surroundings (and the dinner they served me by the pool the next night, no charge), it was still a deal.

我从头到尾都无缘得见我预订的那间单人间；这间民宿在当时几乎空无一人，于是我直接被升等到了一间年头更久的双人间（常规标价为18万卢比）。这间客房的状态简直写满了故事：床上铺的是单人被和毯子，空调在漏水，隔音效果足以让我诊断出隔壁客人是否患有睡眠呼吸暂停中止症。考虑到优雅别致的周边环境（还有他们次日晚上为我安排的池边晚餐，免费的哟），我觉得还可以接受。

That dinner was lovely, a standard plate of rice, meat and spicy homemade sambal, but did not compare to that first night I ate at the market, after parking my bike among dozens of scooters.

那顿晚餐还算开心，一客标准份量的米饭、肉和辣口的自制叁巴酱，但是跟我第一天晚上将自行车停在一堆小绵羊里后在集市上吃的那顿，还是没法比。

No taxis wait at the market, making it difficult for travelers to get there on their own, and English is a rarity, so those not willing to get on two wheels may wish to consider a tour offered by the Casa Luna cooking school for 400,000 rupiah to tame the chaos and choose the right dishes.

集市附近没有候客的出租车，很不方便游客自己前往，会讲英语的人也很少，因此那些无意自己骑车出行的游客，不妨考虑参加烹饪学校Casa Luna举办的美食游，收费40万卢比，帮你抚平所有混乱，选择万无一失的佳肴。

I tried a more D.I.Y. solution. On the ride over from Ubud, I asked Komang to list a few Balinese dishes I should try. He gave me three: serombotan, betutu and sate langwan. I jotted them down (having no idea what they were) then asked him how to say “Where is the most delicious _________?” in Indonesian. “Di mana ________ yang enak?” was his suggestion. He also gave me the phrase in Balinese, just in case.

我则尝试了一种更为自力更生的办法。在驾车前往乌布的路上，我让克曼为我推荐几道必尝佳肴。他对我说了三道：serombotan、betutu和sate langwan。我用笔记了下来（但对于这些到底是什么东西毫无头绪），然后问他“哪里有最好吃的_________？”用印尼语怎么说。他教导我说：“Di mana ________ yang enak?”他还教了我一句巴厘语，以防我万一有用得着的时候。

It worked brilliantly. First, I tried asking for the serombotan, and was pointed to a woman standing at a no-name cart behind an array of plates and bowls loaded with vegetables, bean sprouts, soybeans and more. She piled them all together for me, dashed on a combustible sauce and charged me 5,000 rupiah, a delicious, crunchy, tongue-numbing bargain.

这句话真是派上大用场了。我先是试着问了一下serombotan，结果被指向了站在一辆无名推车旁的女人，她置身在一堆碗盘的后面，里面装着蔬菜、豆芽、黄豆还有许多其他的东西。她将所有这些东西堆成一盘，摆在我的面前，浇上一种可燃的酱料，然后收了我5,000卢比，真是一道香脆美味、令人舌头发麻的平民美食。

Next, two other women argued before sending me to Warung Carmayani for betutu, slow-roasted poultry (chicken, in this case) with rice, for 22,000 rupiah. Nice, but rather bland.

接着，另外两位女士在送我前往Warung Carmayani品尝betutu前争论了一番，这道美食是用家禽（这里用的是鸡）慢慢烤制而成，配上米饭，一客要价2.2万卢比。味道不错，但还是平淡无奇了些。

Finally, sate langwan (which turned out to be a fish satay) was sold out. So I compromised at a stand labeled Sate Kambing Juprianto, which specialized in goat satay. A man tossed 10 two-bite sticks of meat over glowing coals and whipped together a rich, surprisingly savory peanut sauce for me on the spot for 20,000 rupiah. I finished it off with some es campur, shaved ice and crazily colorful gelatins, fruit and coconut milk for an additional 6,000 rupiah.

最后是sate langwan（似乎就是一种鱼肉沙爹），但是店里卖完了。于是我做出了妥协，改去了一间标着“Sate Kambing Juprianto”，专卖山羊肉沙爹的小摊。一个男人当场将10块两口大小的肉块丢到灼热的木炭上方，然后与一种厚重粘稠但风味极佳的花生酱搅拌在一起，总共收了我2万卢比。最后，我又另外花了6,000卢比，点了一份es campur，这是一种浇有一堆五颜六色的明胶哩、水果切块和椰奶的刨冰。

On the way back, in Blahbatuh, the village before Kemenuh, I saw a group gathered around the slaughtered pigs and pulled over.

返回宾馆的途中，我在克美奴前面的一个村庄布拉巴度(Blahbatuh)看到一群人围着几头宰杀完毕的猪，便将车靠边停了下来。

“Where are you from?” boomed a voice.

“你是从哪儿来的？”一道嗓门震天响的声音问道。

I immediately took a liking to Widi, perhaps in part because he reminded me, in both looks and boisterously welcoming manner, of a friend in New York. He explained that he and a few others had killed two pigs to divide among his extended family, to be used in dishes for Galungan, during which ancestral spirits are believed to visit.

我立刻就喜欢上了威迪(Widi)，或许有部分原因是因为，无论他的样貌还是他热情待人的方式，都让我想起了我在纽约的一位朋友。他向我解释道，他和其他几个人刚刚宰了两头猪，准备分给他的家族亲戚们，用来制作成菜肴，为当地人民认为会有祖先魂魄来访的加隆安节做准备。

He invited me over the next morning for a breakfast of lawar, made of minced pork and vegetables and grated coconut, jumbled together with a spicy sambal.

他邀请我在次日清晨与他共进一种名为lawar的早餐，这道菜肴用切碎的猪肉和蔬菜混合椰丝，再拌上一种辣口的叁巴酱制成。

I had planned a tour of island temples and other attractions with Mank Jay, a driver and guide who was Mangku’s nephew, so I stopped by early and met Widi’s family, who lived in a traditionally structured family compound.

我已经计划好，要与师傅的外甥，司机兼导游曼克・杰(Mank Jay)，结伴游览岛上的神庙与其他景点，于是我早早拜访，见到了威迪一家，一个拥有着传统家族结构的大家庭。

I had read that every Hindu family in Bali had its own temple, or sanggah, but I hadn’t imagined an entire section devoted to shrines representing different manifestations of the gods and the family’s ancestors. Offerings of rice and flowers had been laid in front of each; Widi himself prays there three times a day when he can, two times when he is working as a bus driver.

我曾经在书上读到过，巴厘岛上的每一个印度教家庭都拥有自己的神庙，这在当地的语言里叫作sanggah，但是我完全想象不到，他们会开辟出一整块区域来陈设神龛，里面供奉着不同的神灵及家族祖先们的化身。每一尊神像前，都摆放着米饭和鲜花作为祭品；威迪自己在条件允许的情况下，每天会在这里拜上三次，做大巴司机的时候则是一天两次。

I was invited back to spend the first day of Galungan with Widi’s family (more on that next week). But that day I still had my tour with Jay, for which he charged 600,000 rupiah, including gas. You may find others willing to do it for 400,000 or 500,000, but it’s worth extra for a guide you like, and I recommend Jay (62-812-3739-8422).

我受邀在加隆安节当天再次来访，与威迪全家共度佳节首日（下周再讲述更多详情）。但是那一天我也已经计划好，要与杰一同出游，这趟行程杰总共收我60万卢比，包括汽车的油费。你或许发现其他人通常只愿意出到40万或50万卢比，但能请到自己喜欢的导游，多花点钱也是值得的，在此我要强烈推荐一下杰（62-812-3739-8422）。

We motored around to numerous temples and historic spots, the highlight of which was Kerta Gosa, a partly restored complex that had served as a royal home and hall of justice for the Balinese king. Two elegant, typically Balinese buildings remain, one set dramatically in the middle of a pond, as if it were a ship connected to the shore by a sculpture-lined gangplank.

我们开着汽车，参观了大量的帝庙与古迹，其中值得一提的是司法亭(Kerta Gosa)，这座经过部分修缮的建造原本是一处皇家住宅，也是巴厘岛国王主持公义的审判大厅。这里还保留着两栋造型优雅、典型的巴厘岛风格建筑，一栋引人注目地矗立在池塘中央，有如一艘轮船停泊在此，靠一块边缘雕刻着花纹的跳板，与池岸相连。

Inside, the ceilings are painted with mesmerizing depictions of the Hindu epics, most notably the Bhima Swarga story, in which a man enters the underworld to rescue his parents. In a scene now familiar to me, sinners were depicted being punished in hell ― in this version, for example, hanging from trees over a pit of fire as rats gnawed on the ropes.

建筑内部，天花板上描绘着引人入胜的印度教史诗画卷，最值得注意的是怖军天堂(Bhima Swarga)的故事，讲述了一个男人进入冥界营救自己父母。这个场景我倒有些熟悉，描绘的就是罪人们在地狱中受罚的情景――譬如在这里，就是被绳索吊在树上，下方是一个火坑，上面则有老鼠在啃噬着绳索。

“We believe in karma,” Jay said. “When you do a bad thing in your life, and the gods call you, your time is up. And then you see what they’re going to do to you.”

“我们相信因果报应。”杰说，“如果你在活着的时候做了坏事，当神灵召唤你的时候，你的大限就到了。然后你就会看到你以前的作为带给你的报应。”

I had asked Jay if there was a traditional rural village we could visit to get away from the temples and monuments. So he took me to Penglipuran, a beautiful village with an odd twist.

我曾经问过杰，有没有什么传统的乡村村落可以参观，让我们摆脱那些神庙和纪念碑的。于是他带我去了彭力布南(Penglipuran)，一处美丽又带着几分古怪的村庄。

Along its main street of beautifully laid-out stone, families live in homes that date back centuries to pre-Hindu Bali. One catch: You pay 15,000 rupiah at the ticket booth to enter, where you are handed a scrap of paper with a number, referring to the house you have been assigned to visit.

在用石头精心铺就的大路两旁，村民们所居住的房屋可以一直上溯到几个世纪以前，印度教尚未进入巴厘岛的时期。有一点要注意：在售票处支付1.5万卢比的入村费，你会拿到一张写有号码的纸片，指定一栋房屋供你游览。

The houses and people were lovely, but it felt as if I had entered a human zoo that was an apt metaphor for the island as a whole, particularly the more touristed parts: traditional families living traditional ways, as travelers pay to wander through their lives.

这里的房屋和村民都很可爱，但是会给我一种误入了某间人类动物园的感觉，就这座岛而言，这的确是个十分恰当的比喻，尤其是那些十分旅游化的部分――这里的传统家庭沿袭着传统的生活方式，而游客们付费入场四处参观。